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Mountainous Montenegro

We crossed into Montenegro from Croatia under overcast skies that would follow us throughout our time here. A day before, Justin had been discharged from the hospital for severe heat exhaustion/dehydration, so we pedaled just 30 kilometers our first day in the country to an apartment in Herceg Novi, a beautiful small town at the entrance …

Observations From Croatia

1. Pomegranates grow as side-of-the-road weeds. 2. As do figs. 3. Limes are commonly seen growing in front of most homes. And they are ENORMOUS. 4. This thing is real. Luckily we didn’t come across it… 5. …Or so we think! My pannier and hydration system were viciously attacked one night as we slept soundly in our tent. 6. The …

Island Hopping In Croatia

From Ancona, Italy, we hopped an overnight ferry across the Adriatic Sea. You have three options when purchasing your ferry ticket: you can purchase a ticket that guarantees you a cabin, you can purchase a ticket that guarantees you a seat, or you can purchase a ticket that just gets you on the boat. You’re probably …

Finding Home in Italy

Last year I typed “Abruzzo” into Google for the first time after calling my grandmom to get her recipe for scrippelle soup. In 0.24 seconds, I was overwhelmed with 16 million results for the region my father’s family hailed from. Still, in my mind, Abruzzo existed in the same way the North Pole and the moon exists. You …

Mountain Farm Tour

When Justin and I moved into our own house four and a half years ago, I turned a small patch of land next to the kitchen into my very first vegetable garden. I made starter pots out of newspaper, filled them with special soil, pressed tiny seeds into the dirt, watered regularly, held my breath and then tearfully …

When in Roma…

A couple weeks ago, I was e-mailing with a friend and mentioned we were trying to figure out what to do with our remaining time in Italy. Leading up to this point, we’d spent days riding ugly, busy highways in the rain. Each spray of filthy water from passing Mack trucks—or MAN trucks as they’re called here—was a …

Scenes From Ravenna to San Marino

Seeking shelter from the rain. Ravenna! Inside these monuments and churches are beautiful mosaics.   The nicest-looking, side-of-the-road wild blackberries I’ve ever seen.  Asleep on the job.  Dinner with a view of the Adriatic Sea.     We climbed to the very top of the Republic of San Marino, the fifth smallest country in the world.  Founded …

Viva Venezia!

“So, what’s your plan?” We get asked that question a lot. Because local knowledge is invaluable–and, let’s be honest, because we don’t have a plan–we typically answer with, “What do you recommend?” It hasn’t led us astray so far. In fact, it’s taken us to the gorgeous mountain town of Garmisch, Germany, and through the heart …

Northern Italy: It’s Amore!

We crossed into Italy at dusk via Brenner Pass and–right on cue–smelled pizza! I’m pretty sure I also spotted the first woman with black hair, aside from myself, since we arrived on foreign soil. As the evening light waned, we coasted down a smooth bike path into Vipiteno, where we found a wooded area behind a …